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Seedbedby Keith Reid
What's happening to your soil under the snow?The extent of physical change in the soil depends not only on the air temperature above the soil, but on the amount of snow cover. Not all of the effects are negativeby KEITH REIDStudies about the behaviour of soils during the winter are few and far between. This is natural, since it is even harder to get at a soil when it is frozen solid or when it is covered with a layer of snow than it is during the growing season.An outcome of this difficulty is the common assumption that very little happens in the soil during the winter. While it is true that things move slowly during the cold months, it is unlikely that any processes in the soil can be said to stop completely during the winter. Some work has been done on the physical aspects of cold soils, primarily because of their importance to engineers who design roads or buildings. There is less understanding of the chemical and biological processes that happen in the soil, but recent work with greenhouse gas emissions suggests that what happens below the surface of the soil in winter should not be ignored. The extent of physical change in the soil depends not only on the air temperature above the soil, but on the amount of snow cover. Snow is an excellent insulator, because of the air trapped within the snow crystals. Small mammals like mice and voles know this well, living comfortably beneath the snow even though the air temperature plunges to minus 30 or more. It is not uncommon, in areas of high snow accumulation, for the soil to freeze only rarely, and then to thaw within a few days because of heat conduction from deeper in the soil. It is a much different situation in areas where there is little snow, or where the snow is removed regularly. Without the insulating value of the snow, sub-zero temperatures penetrate into the soil and the soil water begins to freeze. As heat is lost from the surface, the depth of the frozen layer increases. At the bottom of the frozen layer, strange things begin to happen. As water is removed from the liquid phase by freezing, more water diffuses towards the freezing front to replace what has gone. This is exactly the same process that happens during the summer, when water is converted into vapour through evaporation, but the outcome is quite different. The frozen water is still present in the soil, and the water that has diffused to the frost front also freezes, so a layer of ice eventually accumulates within the soil. These "frost lenses" can range from just thick enough to be visible up to several inches in thickness, and there can even be multiple frost lenses as freezing conditions penetrate deeper into the soil. There are several consequences to these frost lenses. First, these are layers of solid ice, unlike the normal frozen soil that is made up of ice films on the soil particles, cementing them together but not completely filling the pores. An ice lens will effectively block any vertical movement of water or solutes through the soil. These layers also take up space within the soil, so they will lift any structure that is above the frost. Building design for areas with cold winters includes either the ability to "float" up or down without damage, or foundations that penetrate deep enough that the frost never penetrates below their bases. The final consequence is the impact of large volumes of water released when the frost lens melts. In the field, this appears as a sudden increase in the wetness of the soil as the "bubble" of water is forced to the surface and the soil above it collapses into the area that had been occupied by the ice. The same process can occur on roadways if the water cannot drain quickly from the melting ice, causing "frost boils." This is the reason for half-load season on most secondary roads, as the strength of the soil below the road is reduced even if the water never comes to the surface. Not all of the effects of soil freezing are negative. On a gross scale, the formation of ice lenses helps to break up soil compaction, without any intervention by tillage. On a smaller scale, freezing and thawing play an important role in producing a friable soil structure. Ice crystals that form in the soil break apart large clods and squeeze the smaller granules closer together to generate a more stable structure. The idea of fall plowing to "let the frost get into the ground" was not totally wrong, although it is not clear how much the tillage actually increased frost action. It is clear that spring plowing that did not have this freezing and thawing resulted in a much cloddier seedbed. Freezing actions at the soil surface are also responsible for incorporating small seeds into a zone where they can germinate. This is well known with "frost seeding" of red clover. The success of this practice has less to do with the carrying capacity of the soil on a frosty morning than with the movement of the seeds down into the soil by alternate freezing and thawing.
In the next issue, I will discuss the impact of winter conditions on some of the chemical and biological processes that occur in the soil. BF
December 2004
Picking the right corn hybrid - the $30-million questionWorking your way systematically through the maze of hybrid selection will help you zero in on the most appropriate hybrid, rather than just the most popular oneby PAT LYNCHThe current system of choosing hybrids based on popularity, driven by marketers, is restricting provincial corn yields. What with planting poor yielding refugia hybrids that are matched to high yielding Bt hybrid, marketing schemes that give no regard to agronomic decisions, and sales people more interested in selling seed than taking the time to ensure a producer gets the best genetic fit, Ontario corn producers may be leaving five to seven bushels an acre in the bag. On Ontario's two million acres, that is $26-36 million.Things like root strength, emergence, dry down, plant health and flowering time have been replaced by concepts such as increasing "market share," "grower dollars" and "wallet share." Unfortunately, this year there will be the added challenge of deciding whether to buy Poncho-treated seed. This seed treatment will cost you more. Not using a seed treatment can be costly on some fields. But if you want Poncho-treated seed, it will only be available on certain hybrids. (Will the seed companies treat their best hybrids, their poorest or their most popular)? Here is a suggestion to help work through the maze of hybrid selection. First, decide which seed companies you are going to work with. For growers with 100 acres or less, two seed companies are lots, except for plots. For 200-400 acres, restrict yourself to three suppliers. Certain dealers will try to sell to you because they are "good ole boys" and have been friends or neighbours for years. In today's competitive farming environment, this is not how you should buy hybrid seed. You must work with agronomically skilled dealers. Now decide what maturity range you want. (With the high drying costs, it may be worthwhile to plant some shorter season hybrids.) Next, determine where you will plant corn. Then decide the planting order of these fields. Record the major limiting factors in each field (soil type, problem weeds and insects). Don't get hung up on a small problem in one spot. Look at the major yield limiting factors. Don't pick a herbicide-tolerant hybrid just because it will allow you to control weeds in five per cent of the field. Once your fields, maturity range and order have been decided, talk to your preferred suppliers for appropriate hybrids for each field or farm and get two or three choices for each. Look at local plots to help with final choice and, when doing so, find out the planting date, soil type and other characteristics of local plots. How similar is your field to where the plots were planted? For example, are you planting on heavy soil following wheat, while the plots were on a loam oil following beans? Knowing maturity and traits, select hybrids that allow an orderly flow of planting with minimal seed cleanout, such as by planting a refugia hybrid last in one field and then first in the next field. Once you have your hybrid choices, you can either sort through them yourself or use a third party to help sort. Certified Crop Advisors, crop consultants, input dealers not selling seed and other producers can help with this. Such a system pits company against company so that knowledgeable dealers can select the best genetics to fit your specific field. This is different from picking seed that has specific features that may have no value on your farm. It is also different from deciding to let Company A supply seed for a certain farm and Company B supply seed for another farm.
Through this whole process, the real question is whether your seed dealer will sell you the most popular hybrid or take the time to understand where you are planting and sell you the most appropriate one. Or will your dealer choose seed price as the main criteria for your hybrid choice? BF
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