Science Sets the Table for Success

Wednesday, July 23, 2025

From Bacon to Bellies, Pork Has Never Been Better

By Geoff Geddes

Hockey, beer and quality pork. Aside from being the perfect first date, they all scream “Canada.” The country is renowned for its world-class pork, but gaining and maintaining that label takes a team effort. Together, organizations like Swine Innovation Porc (SIP) and the Canadian Meat Council/Canada Pork (CMC/CP), along with a host of swine researchers, institutions and pork associations, devote the time, money and expertise to keep Canada on top.

“Quality is underpinned by consumer preference, and it’s part of a bigger picture that’s connected to sustainability, animal welfare, food safety, and other areas that impact production and demand,” says Daniel Ramage, general manager of SIP.

Like other aspects of the pork sector, quality gains are driven largely by science.

“Research strengthens our understanding of how different elements, such as genetics, feed and animal health, work in concert to effect quality outcomes,” says Ramage.

As a leading funder of pork research, SIP works with government and industry partners to support a diversified innovation agenda. In its latest round of studies – known as Swine Cluster 4 – SIP is targeting improvements ranging from new vaccines to improved genetics, enhanced pork quality attributes, manure management and many more.

“Canada sets the standard for meat quality,” says Dr. Jorge Correa, vice-president, Market Access and Technical Affairs, for the CMC/CP. “There is a strong research focus here on factors affecting quality throughout the process, from farm, slaughter, processing and packing to the end buyer.”

Ultimately, the consumer benefits from this research in the form of tastier, healthier pork and a better eating experience.

Taste over taint

Part of maximizing quality for consumers is eliminating boar taint. Caused by the hormones produced naturally by intact (uncastrated) male pigs, boar taint can give pork an unpleasant odour and taste. Bringing science to bear on the issue, SIP is sponsoring a study to prevent boar taint without the need for castration.

“Through the application of genetics, nutrition and animal behaviour strategies, we will help producers raise taint-free males and optimize the quality of pork for consumers,” says Dr. James Squires, professor in the Department of Animal Biosciences at the University of Guelph.

To further ensure a quality product, the study is also developing a simple boar taint test, led by Dr. Maria DeRosa at Carleton University, to prevent tainted pork from reaching the store shelf.

“Dr. Squires’s genetics and nutrition research is helping our sector tackle boar taint in a highly targeted way,” says Ramage. “This will lead to greater efficiency and animal welfare while achieving sustainability gains that strengthen public trust in the pork industry.”

A belly-full of benefits

Some quality research focuses on specific cuts. In recent years, the pork belly has seen a dramatic rise in demand, prompting a SIP-funded study on the subject as part of Swine Cluster 4.

“We are looking mainly at the quality of the belly and the role of genetics in that regard,” says Dr. Manuel Juárez, livestock phenomics scientist with Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada (AAFC).

“The efforts of Dr. Juarez are a prime example of how innovation at the cross-section of genetics and pork belly quality enables Canada to serve higher-value markets and build on our reputation for quality and consistency,” says Ramage.

This project illustrates the challenge of boosting pork quality while avoiding unintended consequences.

“Thus far, we have seen promising results for genetically enhancing belly quality,” says Dr. Juarez. “When you increase the percentage of fat on the belly, however, you may reduce lean meat yield for the loin. Our goal is to achieve the best of both worlds, so we have the gains without any downside.”

Science must also be mindful that “quality” can mean different things to different people.

“Packers want firm pork, which requires a certain percentage of saturated fat, while consumers prefer unsaturated fat, based on the perception that it is healthier to eat,” says Dr. Juarez. “Buyers also differ in the colour of pork they desire. Ultimately, quality comes down to whatever someone is willing to pay for.”

When trade becomes tricky

Accommodating those differing tastes is critical to strengthening Canada's competitiveness on the world stage through quality, especially in light of the current trade climate.

“Asian countries, especially Japan and Korea, are very strict on pork quality,” says Dr. Correa. “They like to eat marbled pork and prefer a darker colour, as they feel the latter connotes a higher calibre product.”

Thanks to research, Canada caters well to the high-value Asian market. As a result, it became the leading supplier of pork to Japan in 2024.

“Diversification has always been important, but trade shocks in the U.S. and China have put it into even greater focus,” says Ramage. “Research plays a key role in supporting our ability to pivot in a changing trade environment.”

Of course, staying on the cutting edge of quality takes vigilance and a commitment to continuous improvement. It’s a point not lost on SIP, CMC/CP and the researchers themselves.

Cooking up solutions

“We need to do more in promoting Canadian pork as an affordable, tasty and nutritious protein,” says Dr. Correa. “Thanks to new funding, we have begun a study on decreasing the temperature for cooking pork to provide a more satisfying experience for consumers.”

As Dr. Correa points out, issues with dry pork on the part of buyers are just a product of overcooking. In response, the CMC and Canada Pork will soon launch an awareness campaign around the use of meat thermometers when cooking pork and the ideal temperature to employ.

“Even if it’s pork that doesn’t originate in Canada, the temperatures we will suggest are perfectly safe,” says Dr. Correa. “The United States has been using these lower temperatures for the last 10 years and they have never reported any public health issues under those conditions. In fact, we have seen some increase in pork consumption south of the border in recent years.”

Looking ahead, there is always more to be done in the field of pork quality research.

“As a scientific community, we understand much about this subject, but there are still things to learn,” says Dr. Juarez. “With the evolution of the market and the industry, new challenges appear.”

For example, Dr. Juarez and his colleagues are now exploring the element of quality in heavy pigs.

“In Canada, slaughter weight for pigs has steadily increased over the last two decades. Heavier pigs mean older pigs, which impacts various aspects of quality. We need to examine how these different factors interact.”

Perhaps more than any other business, the pork sector understands that the only constant is change. As industry leaders can attest, keeping pace with that change is essential.

Canada is already a global leader when it comes to producing safe, high-quality and nutritious pork,” says Ramage. “That said, there is room for us to keep building on our strengths and responding to opportunities across diverse markets through innovation.”

As it has for decades, science will be there to assist at every turn.

“The knowledge we gain through research helps our industry defend its position as a global leader, develop new markets and meet each challenge as it comes.” BP